history - Leo Hamel

A Brief History of Cartier

2023-03-11 by Rylee Kahan

Cartier is celebrated throughout the world for amazing jewelry and wristwatch designs. You’ve probably wanted a Cartier piece at some point in your life, that is if you don’t already own one. Still, how much do you know about Cartier? Most people only know and remember the current presence of the brand. However, Cartier deserves a bit more of us. Founded in 1847, which is 176 years ago, the company has a rich history.

Founding

After inheriting the company from his teach and master jeweler in 1847 Paris, Louis Francois Cartier renamed the company after himself. When changing the name, Louis Francois founded the now famous Cartier brand. His son Alfred took over the company in 1874. However, it was Alfred’s three sons that really expanded the name and the influence of the brand worldwide. The three brothers opened and managed offices in various parts of the world, including London, New York and St. Petersburg.

Innovation

Cartier is perhaps best known among men for starting the wristwatch trend. In the early 20th century, a friend of Louis Cartier (one of the sons of Alfred) complained how ineffective pocket watches were for aviators. Louis designed a wristwatch for his friend, and named the series after him, Cartier Santos. They continued creating new watch series, some of which are still active today, including Baignoire and Tank series. They started producing women’s watches shortly after the men’s, with many of the same designs and series being adapted for female customers.

Change of Ownership

For over 100 years Cartier remained in the family name. It was only after the death of the third generation of Cartier’s who owned the business that their children decided to sell. The company is presently fully owned by a group of investors under the name of Richemont. It is a conglomerate of luxury goods based in Switzerland.

Cartier Jewelry

Even though they are famous for their watches, Cartier started and has maintained a prominent position in the high-end jewelry market. This aspect of the company’s market is heavily geared towards women. A Cartier, for a woman, is synonymous with brilliant design and a variety of different collections for any occasion. With 14 active jewelry collections, it would be a challenge for anyone to not find a piece they love.

Royal Legacy

However, Cartier’s legacy and reputation don’t come only from the collections of jewelry. Half a century after the founding of the company, King Edward VII described the House of Cartier as the “Jeweller of Kings and King of Jewellers.” A stunning number of royalty and nobility of Europe have been or still are patrons of Cartier, including royals of Spain, Belgium, Egypt, Portugal and many more; most recently the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle. This impressive roster of customers came after the King Edward VII ordered 27 tiaras for his coronation in 1902. He was so pleased with the work of Cartier that he issued a royal warrant to Cartier in 1904.

Cartier Jewelry & Watches in San Diego

If you are on a lookout for a piece of vintage Cartier jewelry or pre-owned Cartier watch, visit Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers. Our showroom and jewelry store on San Diego Avenue is the largest source of new and vintage high-end jewelry in San Diego. Our experienced and polite staff will ensure that you find a Cartier piece to suit your style.

15 Interesting Engagement Ring Facts

2023-02-222023-10-17 by Rylee Kahan

For centuries partners have been gifting one another engagement rings with their marriage proposals as a sign of their love and commitment. While certain details of the practice have changed over time, tradition largely remains. When asking for a hand in marriage it is custom to present a ring, usually set with a diamond, to be worn on the third finger of the left hand. Read more to learn about interesting engagement customs and engagement ring history!

Engagement Ring Facts

It’s believed that engagement rings originated in Ancient Egypt, where their shape symbolized eternity. They believed that only the third finger of the left hand had a vein that connected straight to the heart, so that’s where the engagement ring was worn. However, scientifically, all fingers have veins that ultimately connect to the heart, not just the third left.
In Ancient Rome, women often wore two rings – a gold one to be worn outside and seen by everyone, and an iron one to wear at home.
Archduke Maximilian I of Austria was the first person to give a diamond engagement ring. In 1477, he proposed to Mary of Burgundy with a ring adorned with an M-shaped diamond.
Different countries have different engagement ring customs. In the U.S., engagement rings are typically worn on the left hand while in Russia and India, they are worn on the right.
Only about 35 percent of engagement rings are bought without the fiancée’s knowledge.
The most popular engagement ring shape is a round brilliant cut diamond. Second place currently goes to princess cut diamonds.
Platinum was once the popular choice for wedding rings due in part to its durability. Then yellow gold took over for many years as the more affordable choice. More recently, white gold gained the upper hand in popularity, and platinum once again became more affordable. However, yellow gold has recently been making a strong comeback for engagement and wedding rings, and other diamond jewelry.

Until recently, engagement rings were chosen by men to be worn by women. Nowadays, it’s not uncommon for the men to involve their partners in the selection process, or even wear “management” rings themselves!
“Diamond” originates from the Greek word “adamas,” which means “hardest substance” or “hardest steel.”
A staggering 2,000 couples get engaged at Disney World every year. The Statue of Liberty is another popular choice with about 100 couples taking the ferry there to get engaged.
Grace Kelly’s diamond engagement ring is among the most expensive rings. Created by Cartier, the 10.48 carat emerald cut diamond ring was purchased in 1956 for $4 million and is now valued at $44.3 million.
Colorless diamonds are by far the most popular engagement ring stones, although colored diamonds have recently risen in popularity, most notably the fancy yellow.
Diamonds are the most durable gemstone, ranking 10 on the Mohs Scale, making them the most long-lasting choice of gemstone for engagement rings.
Even though diamonds are extremely tough, the rings in which they are set still require a bit of maintenance, so periodic professional exams are recommended to check prongs for wear.
14% of couples choose a gemstone other than diamond for their engagement ring, such as sapphire, ruby, or emerald.

Engagement Rings in San Diego

At Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers, we boast an incredible selection of wedding and engagement rings of all shapes and sizes. What’s more, you can also share your design ideas with us and get a custom-made engagement ring that fits your personality perfectly. We are located on San Diego Avenue just off the 5 freeway, so don’t hesitate to stop by. We’d love to help you find the perfect engagement ring to create the perfect memory.

The History of Hearts On Fire

2023-02-152023-10-17 by Rylee Kahan

Hearts On Fire is a well-known diamond jewelry design and manufacturing company that was founded in 1996 by Glenn & Susan Rothman. About 20 years prior to the founding of Hearts On Fire, the couple started a diamond wholesale business.

While in Europe in 1996, they saw a unique diamond with a geometrically optimized cut that displayed a hearts and arrows pattern. They called it the “Hearts On Fire” diamond and started selling it with the trademark, “The World’s Most Perfectly Cut Diamond®.”

By 1999 the company had a presence in Asia and the Caribbean and launched its first collection of diamond jewelry, creating rings and earrings using their own diamonds. They patented the “Dream” cut diamond in 2002, which was a version of the modified square cut.

Hearts On Fire Partnerships

The same year that the “Dream” cut diamond was patented, Hearts On Fire supplied fashion designer Anne Bowen with diamonds to create a dress for the 74^th Academy Awards. Bowen created a diamond dress, worn by Jules Asner, and estimated to cost over $5 million.

For the 60^th anniversary of the Emmy Awards in 2008, Hearts On Fire created a diamond chandelier. This was following the company’s launch of their Architectural Collection, which was a jewelry line that celebrated architectural structures from around the world. The chandelier was created with over 3,300 diamonds, weighing over 1,000 carats, and valued at $10 million. It was hung in the award show’s green room.

The World’s Most Perfectly Cut Diamond®

All Hearts On Fire diamonds are chosen from the top 1% of the world’s raw diamonds, then they’re cut and polished at 100x magnification, 10 times more than the industry standard. Only a handful of master diamond cutters are allowed to cut Hearts On Fire diamonds, and they take 4x longer to cut. The microscopic precision the company requires results in a diamond of unparalleled brilliance.

Cutting a diamond to exact mathematically-determined proportions allows the stone to sparkle more brilliantly as the maximum amount of natural light is refracted and reflected. Due to the intense brilliance displayed by a Hearts On Fire diamond, it can be seen sparkling even in a dimly lit restaurant or if it’s not perfectly clean.

Hearts On Fire Diamonds in San Diego

Not all “ideal cut” diamonds are created equal, so visit our showroom to compare ordinary ideal cut diamonds with Hearts On Fire diamonds. Our experienced sales team is here to help you find the perfect Hearts On Fire jewelry.

The History of Tiffany & Co. Since 1837

2023-02-112023-02-11 by Rylee Kahan

Tiffany & Co. 1837

Tiffany & Co. was founded in 1837 by jeweler Charles Lewis Tiffany and his business partner John B. Young. The company started out as a stationary and fancy goods emporium (originally named Tiffany & Young) and quickly moved to Lower Manhattan in 1838. Charles Tiffany had effectively established his company in the jewelry industry by 1853, pulling away from its origins as a luxury odds and ends company.

Within 8 years of the company being founded, they released their first mail order catalog in 1845 which is known as the Tiffany & Co. “Blue Book.” They were the first company in the United States to send a mail order catalog, and it was their first debut of the iconic 1837 Blue color which was later patented and branded in 1998.

In 1853 Charles took over sole ownership and control of the company and it was officially named Tiffany & Co. After this, the company moved to a store in Union Square where it flourished as the destination for New York’s fashionable and wealthy elite in the 1870’s. At this time, Tiffany was known for Japonesque-style silverware and diamond jewelry. Charles became known as the “King of Diamonds.”

What’s known as the Tiffany diamond was purchased by the company in 1878 as an uncut stone. The diamond weighs 128.54 carats after being cut and is an intense canary yellow stone from South African deposits.

Just over a decade later, in 1889, Tiffany & Co. redefined jewelry as an art form at the Paris Exposition Universelle. They presented 24 life-sized orchid brooches and won first place for their groundbreaking work.

1900's

In the 1900’s Louis Comfort Tiffany took over the company as their first design director following his father’s death. 50 years after their Paris win, the company’s new-founded Art Deco style triumphed at the 1939 World’s Fair. One piece of jewelry presented at the fair featured a 200-carat aquamarine with 429 diamond, and was sold for $28,000. Adjusting for inflation, that’s just over half a million dollars in today’s value.

This necklace from 1939 was the predecessor of Tiffany & Co.’s World’s Fair Necklace. This updated necklace was unveiled in 2021 at a Tiffany event in Dubai, and is valued between $20-30 million. Tiffany had the chance to work with an 80-carat diamond, and soon after archivists found a sketch of the predecessor.

These two events led to Tiffany & Co. remaking the World’s Fair Necklace, this time with an 80-carat diamond centerpiece and 578 surrounding diamonds. The center wasn’t set with a diamond only because of the company’s opportunity to work with such a large diamond. The choice was made after the original sketch found by archivists presented the necklace with a diamond, not an aquamarine.

One year after the 1939 World’s Fair, Tiffany & Co. moved to their flagship Fifth Avenue store. The location is well-recognized due to the filming of Breakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961 featuring Audrey Hepburn.

Present Day Tiffany & Co.

In the late 20^th century, following their move to Fifth Avenue, designers Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso joined Tiffany & Co. The two designers are credited with bringing new, approachable styles to the brand. Peretti is the creator of the well-known Diamond by the Yard collection, and Picasso created the unique Graffiti collection. While they were two very different styles, they both brought accessibility to the brand for New Yorkers and others around the world.

In recent years Tiffany has notably worked with Nike to create a unique line of shoes. The brand has maintained its approachability to consumers and while they continue to produce extravagant jewelry pieces, they also have a wide collection of sterling silver jewelry that’s made to be worn daily by anyone.

Visit Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers today to view our large vintage Tiffany & Co. collection. We have vintage Tiffany engagement rings, “Please Return to Tiffany” bracelets and necklaces, as well as jewelry from both the Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso collections. Our team is eager to help you find great vintage Tiffany & Co. rings, bracelets, necklaces, and more!

Gemstones: San Diego’s Rich History

2022-12-302023-01-11 by Rylee Kahan

Southern California has produced some of the most beautiful gemstones, and San Diego has played a large role in that history. Six years before the 1848 California Gold Rush started, miners in 1842 were pulling museum-quality gems out of the hills of San Diego County.

The Dowager Empress of China was particularly obsessed with pink tourmaline, making this gem especially lucrative. Now famous Tiffany & Co. was the facilitator of the pink tourmaline trade between Southern California and China.

Royalty in China would place an order and a Tiffany gemologist, J.L. Tannenbaum, commissioned miners in Southern California to mine and ship the order. This continued until 1911 when the Empress died. San Diego’s mines sent over 120 tons of gem-quality pink tourmaline in just their last decade.

Topaz is another gem that is a Southern California specialty. John W. Ware was a San Diego jeweler who owned and operated a small mine on Smith Mountain that produced blue topaz. He had marketed the product from his small mine so well that he eventually was importing the gem to meet his demand.

Sempe and Tourmaline Queen are two of San Diego County’s mines where another gemstone, Morganite, was discovered. The gemstone was named by George F. Kunz, another Tiffany & Co. gemologist, after one of Tiffany’s most distinguished customers at the time: J.P. Morgan. While the discovery and rise in popularity of morganite is attributed to Southern California, it’s since been mined from Afghanistan, Brazil, and Madagascar.

Local Gemstones On Display

San Diego structures are still home to some of these local gems. One of the most notable of these displays was Jessop’s Clock in downtown San Diego. The clock was designed by Joseph Jessop (second-generation jeweler with a local mine at Mount Palomar) and finished construction in 1907. It contains 17 gems that were mined from the Jessop Mine including tourmaline, agate, topaz, and jade.

The clock stood outside of J. Jessop and Sons Jewelry Store through two downtown locations. In 1984 it was relocated to Horton Plaza where it was on display until 2019 when the lease agreement at Horton Plaza ended. Since 2019 it’s been kept safely in storage, awaiting a new lease to be signed for its public display.

If you’re looking to add these or other stones to your collection, visit Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers on San Diego Avenue to find the perfect gemstone jewelry piece.