gems - Leo Hamel

A Diamond’s Journey to Fine Jewelry

2023-10-202023-11-18 by Rylee Kahan

Have you ever wondered how diamonds are formed and what the mining process looks like? Diamonds have a long way to go, starting with their formation in the Earth, mining, and cutting to reaching diamond wholesale brokers and jewelry stores in San Diego or elsewhere. Read on to find out how diamonds travel from beneath the ground to your jewelry box.

How Diamonds Are Formed

For a diamond to form in the ground, extreme temperatures and pressure are necessary. More specifically, the temperature has to be between 1700 and 2400 degrees Fahrenheit, while the pressure has to be between 650k and 870k pounds per square inch. This critical environment is necessary not only for diamond formation but also diamond stability. According to geologists, commercial diamond deposits contain diamonds that are formed in the Earth’s mantle, 90-120 miles beneath the Earth’s surface. Once formed, these diamonds are believed to be brought to the surface by deep-source volcanic eruptions. Diamond prospectors are on the lookout for kimberlite and lamproite pipes formed during these eruptions.

Main Diamond Miners and Producers

Originally, the majority of the world’s diamonds came from South Africa, India, Brazil, Angola, Botswana, Namibia, and Congo. Nowadays, the majority of mines are located in Russia and Botswana. The biggest diamond miners of today are De Beers, ALROSA, Rio Tinto Diamonds, Debswana Diamond Company Ltd., and Dominion Diamond Corporation. Around 50% of all diamonds are mined either directly from the ground, the mines or kimberlite and lamproite pipes, while around 48% is mined from riverbanks and other marine environments. Miners have to sift 200-250 tons of Earth on average to mine 1 carat of diamonds.

Sorting the Diamonds

When they are mined, diamonds are far from polished jewelry-grade gemstones; instead, they are still in their crystal form. Before they are sold, they have to be sorted. The majority of diamonds are sorted by DeBeers (around 45%), whereas the rest are sorted in Mumbai, Antwerp, and Johannesburg. There are three categories into which a rough diamond can be sorted.

Gem-Quality Diamonds

Around 20% of mined diamonds are sorted into the gem-quality category. These are composed of at least 99.95% carbon. As the name suggests, they are used for jewelry making. They are valued for their color and clarity, whereas shape is not so relevant at this point.

Industrial-Quality Diamonds

Around 80% of the world’s mined diamonds fall under this category. They are mostly yellow in color as yellow diamonds are the hardest diamonds. Industrial diamonds can be classified either according to their carat weight or the number of points. They are used in the automotive, aviation, and marine industries for making tools for drilling or as abrasives.

Other Diamonds

Diamonds that are not sorted into the gem or industrial categories appear in very small percentages. They are typically crushed and later used as diamond dust for diamonds polishing.

Diamond Cutting and Grading

After they are sorted, gem-quality diamonds are cut into the desired shape. Cut is the most important feature of a diamond, so this process is extremely important. Most diamonds are cut in Belgium, Israel, India, South Africa, Russia, and Canada. The cutting process can last anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks, with some large diamonds event taking years to cut. For example, the Pink Star diamond, the largest Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid pink diamond ever graded by GIA, took two years of cutting and polishing to be honed into the desired oval shape.

Reaching the Consumer

Once the diamonds are cut and polished, they are ready to be sold to the manufacturers, dealers, retailers, or collectors. At this stage, gem-quality diamonds are ready to be set into jewelry. On average, it takes around 5 months for a diamond to reach the consumer after it has been sorted.

Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers offers premier-quality diamond jewelry, most notably exquisite new and vintage diamond engagement rings. Stop by our luxurious showroom on San Diego Avenue and check out our collection of dazzling diamond jewelry!

What Makes Colored Diamond Jewelry So Unique?

2023-10-172023-11-17 by Rylee Kahan

Diamonds come in as many hues and intensities as nature can possibly create. The most common diamond is the white, or colorless, diamond. However, this “white” color ranges from completely colorless to actually showing a light tint throughout the body of the diamond. The light coloring is most commonly shades or yellow, and sometimes shades of brown.

These color distinctions are very subtle and are often indistinguishable to the untrained eye, but they can make a big difference in diamond quality and price. Diamond color is graded on a scale from D to Z, from absolutely no hint of color to a visible tint of color throughout the body of the stone. Diamonds graded from D to F are considered colorless; G to J is considered near colorless; K to M is faint color; N to R is very light color; and S to Z is light color. The less color in the diamond, the whiter the diamond appears.

The further down the scale (from N to Z), the more yellow or brown the diamond appears. Diamonds actually occur in all shades of the rainbow, not just white. Naturally colored diamonds include brown, red, pink, gray, blue, green, violet, purple, orange, yellow, and black. When yellow and brown diamonds are an intensely saturated color, they are referred to as “fancy” colored diamonds and are most valuable.

Colored diamonds are created in the same fashion as colorless diamonds, but more chemistry is involved. When foreign materials other than carbon are present during a diamond’s crystallization process, it alters the chemical development, thus changing the color of the diamond. The result is a beautiful, naturally colored diamond.

How Do Diamonds Get Their Natural Color?

When different trace minerals and elements are trapped during the crystallization process the result is the creation of different hues.

Brown, Red, and Pink Diamonds

While still buried deep within the Earth’s core, intense pressure and heat causes distortions in the crystal lattice during the diamond’s voyage to the surface. This change in the electron structure absorbs green light, which reflects a pinkish hue and produces brown, red, and pink diamonds.

Gray and Blue Diamonds

When boron is present during the chemical process it bonds to the carbon in the crystal structure. This bonding causes the absorption of red, yellow, and green areas of the color spectrum and reflects a bluish/grayish color.

Green Diamonds

Right before a diamond is about to burst through the uppermost layer of the Earth’s crust, it absorbs naturally occurring radiation. This radiation absorbs red and yellow light, which creates a green reflection.

Violet and Purple Diamonds

There are a few different theories about how these diamonds get their color. The cause of color is due to a type of crystal distortion; however, it is also believed the presence of hydrogen is a key factor.

Orange and Yellow Diamonds

Orange and yellow hues are attributed to one specific element – nitrogen. Nitrogen atoms will bond in such a way that blue light is absorbed, producing a yellow reflection. The absorption of both blue and yellow spectrums results in an orange reflection.

Black Diamonds

Contrary to all the above colors, a black diamond’s color is not related to trace elements. Small inclusions of graphite and iron clusters create this color, making the diamond appear opaque.

Here at Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers, we have a vast array of loose and mounted diamonds to choose from. Whether you’re looking for the traditional “white” diamond or a unique, natural color, stop by our jewelry store on San Diego Avenue to find your favorite diamond. Our expert salespeople will guide you to make the very best decision for your needs.

Celebrate July Birthdays with Rubies!

2023-07-112023-07-21 by Rylee Kahan

You’re probably burned out from hanging out at the beach, grilling the day away, and watching a magnificent firework show lighting up the sky, but the doesn’t mean you get to slack on giving incredible birthday gifts. Putting some thought and effort into purchasing a birthday gift makes it that much more special. And that’s exactly why birthstone jewelry always makes an exceptional birthday gift. Ruby is the July birthstone, and we’re here to show you some of the rosiest rubies to gift your friend or loved one born in this glorious summer month.

Rubies have been one of the most valued gemstones for thousands of years, representing wealth, wisdom, passion, and love. Regardless of the gift you choose, its underlying message will show just how much you care.

A dainty ruby and diamond flower ring makes a beautiful gift. The combination of rubies and diamonds is truly remarkable. The brilliant red ruby give major summer vibes while the diamond halo displays the perfect amount of sparkle and shine. This is a fantastic birthday gift for any July baby who adores all things nature inspired.

Dangle earrings are very trendy right now, so grabbing these for your fashion-forward friend is a great idea. These earrings are versatile so whether she’s trying to keep it casual or dressing up for a night out, they will look absolutely beautiful. It’s essential for every girl to have a pair of earrings that make it easy to dress up or dress down, so you know she’ll really appreciate these.

Brooches are making a comeback! Gone are the days when brooches were only worn by little old ladies in their Sunday best. Now, there are so many different creative ways to wear a brooch! This ruby brooch looks gorgeous securely pinned to the lapel of a blazer, but our favorite way to wear it is as a pendant. All you have to do is clasp the pin shut, slip a chain through and voilà! It’s now a stunning ruby flower pendant! This is the perfect July birthstone gift for anyone who enjoys playing around with creative expression.

Bigger isn’t always better. Sometimes something sweet and simple can be more meaningful than something grand and extravagant. This ruby and diamond halo pendant is the perfect July birthstone gift for anyone who keeps her jewelry to a chic whisper. It’s not too big, it’s not too small, and it’s a charming tribute to their summer birthday.

If you’re looking for something truly breathtaking, this is the piece. Doesn’t the vivid red tone of the rubies paired with the sparkle of the diamonds completely mesmerize you? Tennis bracelets are classic and exquisite, making this a fantastic July birthstone gift for any lady who is all about class and elegance. As soon as she opens the box, this is sure to become her new favorite piece of jewelry.

If none of these gorgeous gift ideas seem right for the special person you’re shopping for, don’t be discouraged! Visit our jewelry store on San Diego Avenue to browse hundreds of other options! Our vast collection is brimming with new, designer, and vintage ruby and colored gemstone jewelry. Let us help you select something spectacular to stun your July-born loved one.

Moonstone is One of June’s Birthstones!

2023-06-162023-06-21 by Rylee Kahan

For most months you only get one birthstone, however those lucky enough to be born in June get three different birthstones! They are pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone. If you’re a June baby or are simply shopping for one, you have a variety of choices when it comes to birthstone jewelry.

Each gemstone holds different meanings and symbolism. Not only is gifting birthstone jewelry a beautiful gesture, but it can also hold a deeper meaning which gives more sentimentality to the gift. Let’s dive into how each of June’s birthstones differ.

Moonstone: June's Mystical Birthstone

Last, but most certainly not least, is the moonstone. Ancient Romans believed moonstone was frozen moonlight. Pliny, the Roman historian, wrote that moonstone’s appearance shifted with the phases of the moon. According to Hindu mythology, this gemstone was created by solidified moonbeams. Now, we know moonstone isn’t actually from the moon. But what is it exactly?

Moonstone is a type of mineral feldspar, usually with a bluish tone. However, it can also be found in colors such as pink, yellow, green, and gray. The distinguishing characteristic of the moonstone is its adularescence, which is the light that appears to billow across the stone. This effect is reminiscent of a shimmering full moon peeking through a sky full of milky white clouds.

This June birthstone is perfect for any June-born with a love of all things cosmic and celestial. As its name suggests, moonstone is associated with lunar mystery and magic. In different lighting and at different angles, it truly does look like a little piece of the moon.

This shimmering gemstone is believed to have calming and balancing energy. Moonstone is also believed to be a “dream stone,” used to treat insomnia and sleepwalking, encourage sound sleep, and promote vivid dreams.

If you’re interested in owning or gifting pearl, alexandrite, or moonstone jewelry for a June birthday, visit Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers. You’ll always find something spectacular in our vast collection of beautiful fine jewelry!

On the other hand, if you already own pearl, alexandrite, or moonstone jewelry that you need to get appraised for insurance or estate purposes, don’t hesitate to contact the San Diego Gemological Laboratory! Our independent appraiser, Elliot Grunwald, is a Graduate Gemologist from GIA.

Gemstones That Are Rarer Than Diamonds

2023-04-20 by Rylee Kahan

Diamonds are by far the most coveted gemstones in the world. And gem quality diamonds are rare compared to the total quantity of rough diamonds that are mined. Especially rare are gem quality diamonds of over one carat in size. This scarcity contributes to their value.

It might surprise you to know that there are several colorful gemstones that are even rarer than diamonds. Because of their rarity, these gemstones are not frequently found in jewelry. For this reason, they’re less well-known than gems like sapphires and emeralds, but certainly not any less beautiful.

Taaffeite

This extremely unusual gemstone was discovered accidentally in 1945 by Austrian geologist, Count Edward Charles Richard Taaffe. While combing through a box of spinel gems, Taaffe noticed there was one that was different from the rest. Because Taaffe was the first to discover taaffeite, the stone was named after him. Taaffeite can occur in colors ranging from deep purple to red, though red is the most uncommon.

Surprisingly, this stone scores an 8 to 8.5 on Moh’s Scale of Hardness, making it unusually durable. Very few taaffeite gemstones have been found since their initial discovery. In fact, the only known deposits are in Sri Lanka, Tanzania, and China. If you’re lucky enough to find one of these dazzling gems, expect to pay about $1,500 to $2,500 per carat.

Tanzanite

Though tanzanite can be purchased rather easily, it is still considered rare because of scarcity. This gemstone is found exclusively in Tanzania, specifically in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro. Because this is the only known location where tanzanite can be mined, it is predicted that the world’s supply will be depleted within 20-30 years.

Iconic jeweler Tiffany & Co. famously used tanzanite in their designs, further driving up the demand for these beautiful gems. Tanzanite’s deep violet and blue hues make them comparable to sapphires, and they’re often used as an affordable alternative. However, as supply decreases, tanzanite’s value will likely skyrocket. Presently, you can anticipate one of these stones to cost you roughly $600 to $1,000 per carat.

Black Opal

Opals are a rather common gemstone and can be found in many jewelry stores. However, black opals are a unique exception. Black opals mesmerize with their celestial colors swirled against an ink black backdrop. It’s no wonder they’re considered to be so exquisite! Similar to tanzanite, black opals are found solely in one location – along the Lightning Ridge in New South Wales, Australia. To own one of these captivating gemstones will cost you around $2,300 per carat.

Red Beryl

Red beryl derives its bright red pigment from the trace element manganese. This gemstone is a relative of emerald, aquamarine, and morganite. Red beryl is primarily mined in the Wah-Wah Mountains of Utah, though small deposits have been located in Mexico and New Mexico. Most stones that are mined are not large enough for faceting, though if you’re fortunate enough to find one, it could cost you over $20,000 per carat.

Benitoite

Benitoite is found primarily in San Benito County, California, which is why California adopted the stone as their state gem. Other specimens have been found in Arkansas, Montana, Australia, and Japan, as well as other regions within California. However, the only gem quality stones have been produced exclusively by the San Benito mine.

Benitoite is sometimes referred to as the “blue diamond” for its mesmerizing translucent blue color. Because of its rarity, most gem quality benitoite is sized at a carat or less, though the largest ever found was nearly 16 carats. To get your hands on one of these gems will cost you about $6,500 to $8,500 per carat.

Alexandrite

Deemed the “emerald by day, ruby by night,” alexandrite has unique color-changing properties that make it highly desirable. In lighter environments, alexandrite sparkles a rich blueish green color, while darker settings cause the stone to transition to a vivid magenta or purple tone. This one-of-a-kind gemstone was first discovered in the mountains of Russia in the 1830s.

It was highly coveted by the Russian aristocracy, deriving its name from Czar Alexander. New deposits have recently been unearthed in Brazil, East Africa, and Sri Lanka. Perhaps these new locations will yield enough to help ease prices, but in the meantime, alexandrite can cost as much as $15,000 per carat.

Musgravite

Musgravite was first discovered in the Musgrave Range of Southern Australia. It is from this range that it derives its name, though traces have now been found in Sri Lanka, Madagascar, and more. Musgravite is found in colors ranging from a greenish gray to purple and scores an 8-8.5 on the Moh’s Scale of Hardness. This score makes musgravite ideal for use in jewelry, but unfortunately quantities are too limited. Despite the discovery of new deposits, availability of musgravite is still scarce, in turn making them quite pricey. The cost for one of these rare beauties? Specimens have sold for as much as $35,000 per carat!

Painite

In 2005, painite took the crown as the world’s rarest gemstone according to the Guinness Book of World Records. At the time, there were only 25 known specimens in existence. Today, that number hasn’t increased by much, with the only known source of painite being in Myanmar. This gem can occur in colors ranging from brown to red, and even pink. Painite is pleochroic, meaning that it can appear to change colors when viewed from different angles. So, what does the world’s rarest gemstone cost? If you’re able to locate painite on the market, it may cost you as much as $50,000 to $60,000 a carat.

Grandidierite

Grandidierite was discovered in Madagascar in 1902 by a French minerologist, Alfred Lacroix. He named his treasure after French explorer and naturalist, Alfred Grandidier. Since his initial finding, small samples of grandidierite have been found in Namibia and Sri Lanka, though very few have been gem quality. Grandidierite commonly occurs in a teal blue color and can transmit light due to it being pleochroic. Specimens that are fully transparent are considered the rarest. Forbes ranked this gemstone the third rarest on earth, with prices as high as $20,000 per carat.

Though these gemstone varieties may be hard to come by, there are an abundance of dazzling colored gems that are available for you to enjoy. Here at Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers, some of our new and vintage jewelry features precious gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and everyone’s favorite – diamonds! Stop by our San Diego Avenue jewelry store today to explore our ever-changing array of amazing gemstone jewelry.

2023 Valentine’s Day Gift Guide

2023-01-312023-10-16 by Rylee Kahan

Valentine’s Day is a day to share your love with each other and show your special man or woman just how much you adore and admire them. Even if you try to demonstrate your love every day, Valentine’s Day is the day to make an extra effort. What better way to do that than with a thoughtfully chosen piece of jewelry or a watch that shows how much you pay attention to what he or she likes?

Since everyone’s personal taste is extremely important for their style, be sure to keep your loved one’s personal style, lifestyle, and the frequency in which they wear jewelry and accessories in mind.

Our team is eager to help you find the perfect gift for your Valentine! Leo Hamel’s has a wide variety including intricate rings and bold necklaces, new and pre-owned watches, designer jewelry, accessories, and handbags. Here’s a peek into our Valentine’s Day collection.

For Her

Valentine’s Day is a day to pay extra attention to the special woman in your life, and these gifts are great options that will show her how much you care.

Vintage Freeform Ring

Vintage 14k white gold high polish freeform ring set with 0.22 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds. Retails for $675, Our Price: $475

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Vintage Heart Pendant

Vintage 14k white gold open heart slide pendant set with 0.18 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds on a 16" cable chain. Retails for: $650, Our Price: $395

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New Heart Earrings

New 14k yellow gold tiny heart stud earrings. Retails for: $250, Our Price: $225

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Vintage "LOVE" Necklace

Vintage 14k yellow gold "LOVE" station necklace on an 18" oval link chain. Retails for: $395, Our Price: $325

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For Him

While Valentine’s Day leans heavily towards gifts for women, it’s the perfect opportunity to show the man in your life how meaningful he is to you.

New Men's 38MM Hamilton Khaki Field

New men's Hamilton Khaki Field 38mm in stainless steel wtih a white Arabic dial, sapphire crystal, green nato strap, tang buckle, and automatic movement. Price: $495

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Vintage Tiffany & Co. Cufflinks

Vintage sterling silver Tiffany & Co. "Please Return to Tiffany" cufflinks. Retails for: $300, Our Price: $210

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Vintage David Yurman Ring

Vintage sterling silver David Yurman sculpted five-row cable ring. Retails for $395, Our Price: $235

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New Men's 45.5MM Tissot Supersport Chrono

New men's Tissot Supersport Chrono 45.5mm in stainless steel with a blue & black dial, sapphire crystal, black tachymeter bezel, blue & black strap, tang buckle, and quartz movement. Price: $425

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These are a handful of pieces that would make this Valentine’s Day very special, and to see more of our collection please visit us at our showroom located at 1851 San Diego Ave, Suite 130, San Diego, CA 92110. Our knowledgeable sales team is here to answer all your questions Tuesday-Friday from 11am-6pm and Saturdays from 11am-5pm. We are OPEN Tuesday February 14^th from 11am-6pm!

Gemstones: San Diego’s Rich History

2022-12-302023-01-11 by Rylee Kahan

Southern California has produced some of the most beautiful gemstones, and San Diego has played a large role in that history. Six years before the 1848 California Gold Rush started, miners in 1842 were pulling museum-quality gems out of the hills of San Diego County.

The Dowager Empress of China was particularly obsessed with pink tourmaline, making this gem especially lucrative. Now famous Tiffany & Co. was the facilitator of the pink tourmaline trade between Southern California and China.

Royalty in China would place an order and a Tiffany gemologist, J.L. Tannenbaum, commissioned miners in Southern California to mine and ship the order. This continued until 1911 when the Empress died. San Diego’s mines sent over 120 tons of gem-quality pink tourmaline in just their last decade.

Topaz is another gem that is a Southern California specialty. John W. Ware was a San Diego jeweler who owned and operated a small mine on Smith Mountain that produced blue topaz. He had marketed the product from his small mine so well that he eventually was importing the gem to meet his demand.

Sempe and Tourmaline Queen are two of San Diego County’s mines where another gemstone, Morganite, was discovered. The gemstone was named by George F. Kunz, another Tiffany & Co. gemologist, after one of Tiffany’s most distinguished customers at the time: J.P. Morgan. While the discovery and rise in popularity of morganite is attributed to Southern California, it’s since been mined from Afghanistan, Brazil, and Madagascar.

Local Gemstones On Display

San Diego structures are still home to some of these local gems. One of the most notable of these displays was Jessop’s Clock in downtown San Diego. The clock was designed by Joseph Jessop (second-generation jeweler with a local mine at Mount Palomar) and finished construction in 1907. It contains 17 gems that were mined from the Jessop Mine including tourmaline, agate, topaz, and jade.

The clock stood outside of J. Jessop and Sons Jewelry Store through two downtown locations. In 1984 it was relocated to Horton Plaza where it was on display until 2019 when the lease agreement at Horton Plaza ended. Since 2019 it’s been kept safely in storage, awaiting a new lease to be signed for its public display.

If you’re looking to add these or other stones to your collection, visit Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers on San Diego Avenue to find the perfect gemstone jewelry piece.